The Journey Begins

It is somehow quite fitting that I should start this journey on Air New Zealand’s Hobbit plane. New Zealand re-exporting something English to England.

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LAX airport helped reaffirm my choice of Europe rather than the States as the destination – hopefully Europe will do the same.

Now after a mad dash across London, I heading north to Bronty country at speeds unheard of by Kiwi Rail. Actually when I say “mad dash” I really mean I sat on the underground for 30 minutes and 23 tube stops to get to Kings Cross plus conquered countless escalators carrying 40 kilos of assorted bike, gear etc. 

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More later – I might go watch the Black Caps at Headingley in Leeds, they could use the support.

Welcome to an English spring/ Summer

Well didn’t get to see the Black Caps play. The first day’s play was cancelled – possibly due to the wind, hail, freezing temps and- did I mention the rain. But at least I catch some cricket the next day when Haworth played another village team

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spot the ball….

And for a blast from the past, really somewhat more genteel, I used the local steam train to get back to Haworth from Keighley ( pronounced Knightly but I’m not sure why) 

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And it also has a bar with local beer

 
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Well the bike is out of its box and put together and hopefully the bad weather will stay away

Day One – the real Day 1

There is a certain exhilaration in riding a fully load touring bike thru London traffic. Mercedes and Audi  drivers proved that they are just as  arrogant  and idiotic as in New Zealand and probably elsewhere. So it was good to get to the canals and off the road.


Beautiful weather,a following breeze and dozens and dozens of people strolling the banks of the canals as I headed out of London – it’s May Bank Holiday. 

My most useful device  – the humble bike bell. I must had rung it a thousand times including the five times for a dear old lady who, as i finally passed, admonished me for not having a bell. Grandson said “Nana, he did ring it” to which she replied somewhat curtly ” he did not” I left before seeing who won that argument but my money was on Granny.

Harlow, possibly the real “Which way Essex” and all unscripted. I got lost for awhile amongst its delightful 60’s concrete bunker of a city centre and the mammoth pharmaceutical factories and office blocks  before being released back into the country again and a night at the Fox Inn in Matching Tye. A beautiful old pub with great accommodation, real beer and a not meal.


Now tomorrow the weather is rain….. Guess some felt that today was too good. Still must take the bad  with the good


So it rained a lot

There is something almost therapeutic about cycling in the rain, passing thru The English countryside in the soft mists as rabbits and pheasants range across the landscape. Possibly this is because, as a schoolboy the bike was my escape as I explored country lanes and paths.

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Okay enough of that drivel, the rain can be a pain. It is wet thru your shoes etc etc. but then again I could be doing this

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Instead I have bridges like this

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Reality can strike’ -arriving in Colchester -I’ve been to Tesco’s for food etc – makes Pac&Save look provincial

Tomorrow the ferry to Denmark…

Excellent Service

Yesterday my Powermonkey Extreme (wonderful name) stopped charging the cornucopia of electrical devices I now have. Let’s see there’s the iPad, iPhone, Camera and GPS. Kinda of a worry as I mostly away from power supplies and leaving on a boat for Denmark this afternoon.


That’s the Extreme above.  Anyway I called up the makers at Powertraveller and without any issues, they had a replacement unit to me by 8:30 this morning. Now that’s what I call superb service

‘Bye England

Well I’ve made it to Harwich, okay I must admit I took the train for the last 21 miles – something to do with the cold and wet. Had to oil the chain as it was rusty after yesterday. Stayed at the Rose & Crown on Colchester last night. A 14th century inn now in a busy road intersection on the way out of town. This is it.

Had to cheat and get a photo from the web as it was raining and gloomily weather yesterday/today not the sunny skies as this photo. Anyway it is a lovely old inn with all the old unleveled floors and low ceilings.
Now it’s time to get the ferry to Denmark and, hopefully better weather

Time to disembark in Esbjerg

The photo below is of keen important to just about everyone – by that I mean long distance cycle tourists. Clearly the importance is obvious.

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Okay, I’ll explain. Mark and Gideon are riding to Croatia, and I’m riding north – wait for it – we’re all riding Thorn Nomads from Bridgewater in Somerset’ except they’re on generation 2 and I’m on a generation 1 ( it’s the one hiding in the back – without a side car). I was envious.

This next photo is of the Debbie Mayo-Smith IT HelpDesk.

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This takes outsourcing to extremes. But the hourly rates are very good and it only took 11/2 hours to fix Debbie’s laptop using an ipad, wifi, Viber and Teamviewer from my tent.
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The joys of getting Internet

I think that the rituals and ceremonies of the ancient and secret societies of past ages were child’s play when compared to getting a SIM card for an iPad in Northern Europe. You must go to places that pretend to have cards and get them at places that say they do not. Once one has actually
obtained the holy object and having cut it down to size, there are Byzantium creeds that must be followed or be doomed to the realm of “No Service“.
I sought the guidance of the Wizard Søren, a wizard from the sunny warm land of Silkeborg some 120 leagues from Lemvig. Søren soon returned me to the land of ThreeGee and my withdrawal pains ceased.

What’s the difference between Invercargill and Lemvig ?
Answer; 0.5 of a degree Centigrade and 35 km in wind strength , oh, and Invercargill doesn’t have the fog either although it does have the rain right now…..

20130601-230206.jpgokay that’s Thyborøn not Lemvig but you get the picture.

A Windy race across Jutland

50kph side winds – promises to be an interesting day ride –

Well, it turned out that the winds were more from the back most of the way and I ended up doing just over a 100 kms in 5 hours compared to 90 kms in 10 hours a couple of days ago when I was battling the head winds.
Denmark has many bike routes, but like many elsewhere they meander and one is temped to take the straighter roads that have fast and sometimes heavy traffic. It can be difficult when the ‘car’ road sign says 41k and the bike route is 60k so it is a mixture of both.
By the way this is the HQ of Bang & Olufsen – unfortunately they weren’t giving out any free samples.

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Almost last day in Denmark

I had hoped to get to Grenaa and jump the night ferry to Sweden today but it was not to be. Once again I had the perplexing choice of ‘main’ road or bike route. I tried the main roads a few times but it’s simply not enjoyable. So once again I’m at a campsite listening to the unceasing wind in the trees and 40ks from Genna by bike but 23 by car…..

I managed to start the day’s ride late thru the simple act of losing my glasses. Of course I only discovered them missing when I was getting on my bike, ready to roll with everything packed and strapped. So after one hour of unpacking etc’ I gave up and went on my way. At least I had my sunglasses.

Anyway the country for the most part was lovely, rolling woodlands amid the fields of grain.

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And the occasional lake.

Oh, when I unpacked my tent, gues what was hiding there? My glasses, who clearly felt the need for extra sleep and quiet time for the day.

‘Bye Denmark, Hello Sweden

There is a real downside to having access to the Internet. You can see the forecast for anywhere out for the next fortnight! So the past week of head winds will continue for awhile. Incidentally, hands down, the best ipad app for weather is yr.no courtesy of the Norwegian Weather Service. Even for New Zealand, Let alone Scandinavia – but sometimes ignorance is bliss. 

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At least right now I’m enjoying the sun sitting at a cafe in Grennå waiting for the afternoon ferry to Sweden and the wind doesn’t matter.
Just got on board the ferry and on the TV is Neighbours from Oz ! Aaaargh!
Now back to reality. This was a small Strand I passed thru on the way. 
Judging by the small pleasure boats in the Harbour, it must be nice sailing in summer.
And this was a beautiful castle, complete with moat nearby. 

We’re now at sea and the Stenna Line ferry has free satellite Internet. Amazing now the world is changing. Also amazing is this Windfarm, some 88 square kilometres inside off the coast of Denmark that, by September will produce 4% of Denmark’s electricity.

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Finally as I leave Denmark, I’d like to thank Nancy for the wonderful time in Lemvig, despite the fog and cold! and also Søren who tried to convince me that i should go south as it would be warmer and less windy. Possibly, but it was also the wrong direction.

And now for Sweden

One of the many lessons I should have learnt is that, if the food looks dodgy it probably is. I think the vague looking sandwich I had on the ferry to Sweden had been made by someone long retired from the catering business. Luckily I have three pair of cycling shorts and stayed in a somewhat grand hotel that night in Varberg. Somewhat recovered, I set off for Gothenburg some 90 k away, passing thru some rather picturesque areas.

20130607-163906.jpg and small ports and numerous bath houses.

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In Gothenburg I stayed with the Ellegårds who live atop one of the highest mountains in the city meaning a hockey stick climb higher than just about all of Denmark and certainly higher than any on my journey so far.

It turns out that I arrived on the eve of Sweden’s National Holiday. So next day Lotta, Lars and went for a 10k coastal row around some islands – but only after Lars had raised the club colors and Swedish Flag

20130607-164828.jpg oh, plus a 10k ride to get there another back up the “hill”.

Another lesson I have learnt is – don’t assume you can take your bike on the trains – even if the Raileurope.com site says you can. Sweden does not allow bikes on trains. So… Another change of plans and instead of heading to Oslo then taking the train to Stockholm,

Long day in the saddle

I always intend to start nice and early but rarely seem to – despite the fact it’s fully daylight by 3:30m and the sun rises at 4:15am. So I left the campground at 9:15 and not at 8.

The scenery has changed considerably and is mostly forests that have been punctured with hundreds of lakes, and even here, they all seemed to have a house on them. However, like Denmark, there are many empty or abandoned houses throughout. But the more people move to the cities, the more they want a summer house.

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So far, I seen hares, rabbits, one dear, no elk and some cranes

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Finally after 103 k and one ferry crossing, I reached my camp for the night and a gourmet meal of 2 things I think were ravioli and a pasta-ish sauce mixed with Tesco’s instant mushroom soup plus a cup of tea.

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Sweden on a Sunday

Southern Sweden does not appear to do Sundays. In Ljungby it took a while to find a cafe open for coffee.

20130609-220024.jpg this being one of the main streets, so back into the countryside where things were more interesting.

20130609-220135.jpgThis Rune stone (circa 1000 AD) raised by a son to his father. Around the area were many graves and others Rune stones going back to 600AD.

So much for history, lunch time and the impact of no razor since NZ.

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The Baltic at last

It’s been a long ride since Varberg but I’ve reached the Baltic and clicked over on a 1,000 kms since the start. The days have started blurring together. And for the most part it seems I was in forests or woods alongside lakes. Every so often something catches ones eye like this cross high up on the side of a barn.

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The Southeast Coast of Sweden

The ride north from Kalmar to Oskarshamn has to be one of the most wonderful bike rides, assuming the weather co-operates. It is relatively flat, has little or no traffic for most of it and goes thru quiet forests.

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Interspersed with fields and wild flowers

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Oskarshamn

Oskarshamn has the quiet feel of a place that is slowly fading. Quite a few stores are empty. Passenger trains no longer run here and the station is a place reminisce about years long gone.

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The rain just adds to the mood. I suppose it is now mainly a place where you get the ferry to Gotland and that ferry only goes once a day, at least during the week. Maybe it is more frequent during the high season that begins in two weeks.
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Gotland

There are no prizes for guessing where I am now…..

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While waiting for the ferry I met Baldrick, well that’s who he reminded me off. He was from Berlin and heading to Stockholm. At least I think so as he knew as many English words as I know German ones. Lord knows how he managed with the weight he was carrying.

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